Po's: I Recommend the Dumplings

Restaurant: Po's Dumpling Bar
Location: 1715 W. 39th St., KC MO
Food: Above-average KC Chinese
Service: Incredibly friendly
Atmosphere: Too quiet but nicer than many other Chinese places in KC
Price: Entrees starting at $9.95
Rating: one napkin

Po's is, if nothing else, a better option for Chinese in KC. I haven't got a ton to say about it in this review because my recent trip there was mostly what I expected, and most people would. The food was decent. The restaurant was the typical hush-hush, sterile atmosphere, cleaner and more contemporary feeling than the likes of Szechuan down the street but not as alive or vibrant as Blue Koi to the West. But it's a solid, and for Chinese restaurants in KC, that means something.




What's always appealed to me about Po's is that it calls itself a dumpling bar. I love dumplings and often leave Chinese restaurants wishing I'd eaten just dumplings instead of a gloppily sauced plateful of veggies. That sentiment held true after this recent trip.

Our Cha Su Buns were incredible. If you've not had these deliciously fluffy, yet sticky pork buns, the flavor is, surprisingly, close to that of a pig-in-a-blanket... slightly sweet pork, piping hot and steaming inside a puff ball dumpling purse. Two of them come served in a metal steamer dish like little clouds of perfection. They're a must-have on the starter menu.

Also from the starter menu, we ordered the Emperor's Dumplings - pork - which come six to an order, pan fried. [I don't understand why people get steamed dumplings when the pan friend ones have such an incredible crunch on the spots where the wrapper touches the pan, contrasting with the rest which is wonderfully chewy and soft.] These dumplings, with special dipping sauce on the side, did not disappoint either. They come in a little pinched taquito shape, as opposed to the half-moon you see so often, and were surprisingly filling.

Our other starter was Elizabeth's Tofu Vegetable Soup. Its delicate, umami-flavored broth came with pretty bits of broccoli, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, scallions and silky soft tofu. It was light yet flavorful. Nothing feels quite as therapeutic as does eating a light Asian soup like this. Its earthy, unctuous aroma imparts a certain satisfaction of the soul.

Our entree of hunan chicken was fine, though seemingly identical to what one could probably get at any other Chinese restaurant in town. Crisp tender steamed veggies and a huge portion of cooked chicken came coated in a dark sauce. Its flavors were fine but this dish din't carry the same enjoyment as the starters, upholding my theory that if I'd stick to the dumplings and soups, I'd be a bigger fan of Chinese restaurants. But it was plentiful, and for that I was glad.

Next time I go to Po's, it'll be for one purpose: dumpling bonanza. The entrees are fine and I do want to point out that their website features a "New Chinese Authentic Dishes" section, which speaks volumes to their dedication to the type of food they make and serve, but the real treat here are those soft little pillows of joy. With this kind of food, a nice looking dining room and incredibly friendly service, it's hard not to like Po's. Sure, a little music, additions to the decor and a more assertive service approach would be nice, but it's definitely an enjoyable place as is.

Rating: one napkin

Baja 600's Doors Closed for Good

It seemed as though Baja 600 had a pretty good run in its primo location on the Plaza at 600 Ward Parkway. That torch-lit stone patio out front always looked like a great spot for an al fresco (how do you say that in Spanish?) margarita when the weather was right. But its reputation for poor service and hit or miss menu items (seemingly identical to Cactus Grill) kept it from solidifying a good base of business in this critic's estimation.

Between the various articles and comments I'm finding online, the excuses for unpaid rent to the tune of over $160,000 are varied:

• Inability to recover from costs related to 2009 fire
• Highwood Properties wanted Baja outta there so they could get a classier tenant
• Loss of liquor license killing income

But whatever the case, it's gone for good. Personally, I'm looking forward to a potential upgrade inhabiting the space. 

Links of interest:

http://blogs.pitch.com/fatcity/2010/08/what_the_hell_is_going_on_at_b.php#comments

http://economy.kansascity.com/?q=node/7973

http://www.kctv5.com/news/24609761/detail.html

Another Go at Chez Elle

Back in January I had an early experience at the recently-opened Chez Elle creperie in the westside area near 17th and Summit. My take, at that time, was that it had some operational flaws, and the decor was not what I had hoped, but the food was pretty good.

Went back today for brunch with good friends Amanda and Jared and their beautiful twin girls, and found some definite improvements in place.

First of all, there were at least five employees manning the counter, which was at least two more than there were on our first trip. Though the line still moved a little slow, and one still must wait in line regardless of whether ordering a crepe or coffee (no waitstaff), they were able to get over 20 people through during our short stay, most of whom looked quite pleased as they sipped their coffee and forked their stuffed French pancakes.

Secondly, business seems to be doing well. Every seat on the front patio, which is now covered with several comfortable-looking tables and chairs with big red umbrellas for shade, was filled when we left around 10:00 am. And the laid back newspaper reading, caffeine-consuming patrons looked the part of French cafe goers. I think this is where I'll opt to sit on my next trip, maybe before a weekly visit to the farmers' market.

Third, my drip coffee contained no nutmeg! In fact, it was a truly, honest-to-goodness delicious cup of coffee. I'm so glad they quit secretly spicing the joe.

In a breakfasty mood, I went with the Bonjour crepe, which was filled with tons of cheese, little bits of ham and egg, then topped with lots more fluffy scrambled eggs and what I believe was a cheesy mornay sauce. With so much cheese already inside the crepe, the mornay was overkill for me, adding a classically French layer of richness that was one too many for my palette, but not untrue to French cuisine. And I'd imagine most diners would enjoy the sauce, so I can't downgrade for that. Still, three hours later, I was hardly ready for lunch.

Elizabeth went for the simple and cleanly flavored Petite Maison, with gruyere, mushrooms and spinach. One might anticipate, reading those ingredients, this crepe could be a little short on flavor. And it was. But it was refreshing, at the same time. The mushrooms' earthiness played well with the super-fresh and tender spinach leaves. The gruyere was just the right nutty cheese to bring them together. Wouldn't have been my choice, but for she who is always thinking along the lines of best health, it fit the bill.

And I have to admit, that decor I complained about previously was seen through different eyes today, when the twin girls sat themselves in the two miniature leather chairs and wood coffee table next to us and giggled at the cute kodak moment they had just created. Now I (almost) have a soft spot for the comfort of Chez Elle's environment.

On a final note, our companions have Celiac and must avoid gluten. Despite a menu predicated entirely on a food made with it, Chez Elle boasts gluten-free choices as well as vegan! This type of attention to the needs of their patrons is not only kind, it's good for business.

So, as mentioned, several upgrades to report. It's not on my "gotta go" list of breakfast spots in town yet, but I certainly won't avoid Chez Elle in the future, either. Still sticking with a one napkin rating, but changing my song from Tres Ordinaire to tout à fait content.

Rating: one napkin